Early 2026
Panama City, Casco Viejo, Bocas del Toro — then shipping the bike across the Darién Gap into South America.
Crossing into Panama felt like nearing the end of the long and arduous first stage of my journey. Leaving Costa Rica was hard — it had been extremely comfortable and kind. My last experiences there were with Maritza and Francisco, the loving couple at the Albergue Maria Isabel, the most connected I had felt to a host anywhere.
I was surprised when I entered Panama through the northwestern corner to find it cold and high in altitude. More cloud forests, with which I have become increasingly familiar. The range of bird species in these forests is fantastic. In Cerro Punta, in northern Panama, I managed — with the help of a guided tour — to spot a pair of nesting quetzals, one of the most colorful and unusual birds on the planet.
Continuing south, I cut over to the Caribbean and spent time in Bocas del Toro, following the advice of a friend I had met several times, most recently in Antigua, Guatemala, who told me I had to go to the Filthy Fridays party. Life in the Caribbean felt familiar, given all the time I've spent in Puerto Rico. What is most strikingly different is the way this part of the Caribbean is frozen in time. I couldn't help imagining that Puerto Rico looked like this when my grandfathers were children. Beautiful humid sunny weather, poverty, smiles and laughter — a Caribbean special.
As I rode toward Panama City, I began to long for South America; from the beginning, my journey had really been about getting there. The continent felt wild, fresh and new. Massive and everlasting. I felt ready for this next undertaking.
I ultimately decided to fly my bike over the Darién Gap instead of shipping it. My original plan was to put the moto on one of the sailboats that carry tourists between Colón and Cartagena. Sadly, after contacting all of them, I learned that Colombian customs no longer allows them to dock carrying any cargo.
So that's that — on to South America!